Shopping in VN in brief

Shopping in Vietnam is a fun and interesting experience, and guarantees good bargains to those who know what to look for. It is true to say that you can find nearly anything in Vietnam. Markets vary from high class shopping malls, supermarkets to bustling open market, galleries, boutiques and street stalls.
It is not recommended that you buy imported, famous branded products such as clothing, perfume or electronics in Vietnam as tax makes these items more costly than neighboring countries.
In terms of shopping for tourists, Vietnam is most famous for its handicrafts, war souvenirs, authentic clothing, art, antiques and gems.
Hotspots include Hanoi, Hoi An and Ho Chi Minh City, each of which has a temping selection of everything from avant-garde art to sumptuous silk suits.
Art and Antiques
Vietnam has very strict regulations about exporting real antiques. There are several shops to hunt for art and antiques. Both traditional and modern paintings are a popular item. More sophisticated works are displayed in art galleries, while cheaper mass-produced stuff is touted in souvenir shops and by street vendors. Be careful and check your sources for certificates if they claim to sell you an original or antique piece.

Clothing

Vietnam is emerging as a regional design center and there are some extravagant creations in the boutiques of Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

Clothing varies greatly from tourist T-shirts to beaded handbags and traditional ao dai (the traditional costume) made to fit your size. Items made from silk are a popular buy, with prices varying depending on the material and tailor. Pre-made traditional dresses are sold in many places. However, it is more recommended to have the dress made to fit your body, which takes more time and slightly more money.

Shoes, slippers and handbags made from traditional materials (silk and bamboo) can also become unique gifts and accessories.

The Vietnamese traditional conical hat, can be found everywhere throughout the country, but hats made in Hue are most famous as they have a poem embroiled on the inside.
Non (conical hats) are favorite items for women in both rainy and sunny times. The best quality ones can be found in the Hue’s area.

Gems and jewelry
Vietnam is rich in gemstones. The jewelry business is also increasing during current years, and sophisticated works are produced by both big businesses and traditional craftsmen. The quality of the gemstones sold is sometimes doubtable, so it is recommended that you buy gems at prestigious locations and be ware with cheap prices.

War souvenirs
Most war souvenirs sold today in Vietnam (for example, Zippo lighters engraved with platoon philosophy) are fake reproductions. Be careful while transporting these items as many airlines do not allow weapons, even fakes to be carried on their planes.

Handicrafts
Other popular handicrafts in Vietnam include lacquer ware, wood-block prints, and oil and watercolor paintings, blinds made from bamboo, reed mats, carpets, and leatherwork.

Tip: Bargaining
Bargaining should be good-natured, smile and don’t get angry or argue. Once the money is accepted, the deal is done. Remember that in Asia, “saving face” is very important. In some cases you will be able to get a 50% discount or more, at other times this may only be 10%.

Advice for Third-gender travelers

Vietnam is splashed with color, from verdant rice fields, hot pink lanterns and day-glo boutiques, to the increasing visibility of gays and lesbians adding their own special hues to Vietnam’s rainbow.Vietnam is a place to have fun, but also a place to use your common sense since the gay world here is still largely in the shadows and, as a result, some prey on the vulnerability of gay tourists. Nevertheless, no one should miss a chance to encounter the amazingly friendly Vietnamese, to learn about their rich culture and enjoy their warm hospitality!
There have never been official laws against homosexual activity in Vietnam. However, in May, 2002, state-run media labeled declared that homosexuality was a "social evil" on par with drug use and prostitution and proposed laws to allow the arrest of gay couples. Police raided a gay sauna in Saigon in November, 2002, and arrested and harassed law-abiding adults there, requiring them to take re-education classes even though they had not broken any laws.
A report by the Ministry of Labor, War Invalids and Social Affairs said the number of gay couples is on the rise, though it offered no statistics. The government reported that homosexuals have infiltrated the tourism, restaurant and karaoke bar industries and that their "eccentric behavior" went hand in hand with prostitution, drug use and HIV/AIDS. However, hopeful signs are emerging as well: the Communist Youth Newspaper carried a story in November 2002 about homosexuality that stated "some people are born gay, just as some people are born left-handed".
Shamefully, authorities turn a blind eye to real crimes that target gay men and visitors such as organized rip-offs in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. Homosexuality is not a crime, but blackmail is, so do contact the police if you are being threatened by a scam artist.

Advice for man travelers

Sex, songs and massage

Sorry ladies, Vietnam is no doubt a man’s paradise, even if only for the eyes. You are likely to see more charming smiles, graceful bodies and seducing eyes per square kilometer than in any other place on Earth.

Although proposition is rampant, in Vietnam even the dancing girls and the taxi girls have retained an air of youthful naiveté and sincerity that adds to their already devastating charm.

But caution is always the best approach in uncharted territory. There is make up and then, there is life.

Karaoke and massage parlors are often the front door to come sleazy and personal service. The one thing to remember is that, except in the true –blue back alley clandestine bordellos, you can still go for a sing along or a regular Vietnamese massage in any establishment that advertises these services. Extra are extra and never compulsory.

DO remember that prostitution is still regard as a social evil, on top of being illegal. However, it is quite unlikely that you would get into any real trouble with authorities but you could be caught in an occasional police crackdown.

DON’T make serous promise you can not keep. Most Vietnamese ladies will be quite direct about their intentions, short and long term and in turn, will try and hold you to your word.

DON’T carry too much cash when visiting bars and nightclubs. When overstuffed wallets are fleshed in public, you never know who is watching. It could spell trouble a few hours down the road.

DON’T engage in unprotected sex. AIDS is spreading through Vietnam as fast as the country is opening up. There are a number of other diseases that you might have explain to a spouse or a partner when you get back home…Gonorrhea, syphilis, trichomoniasis… if the disease does not kill you, some one else might.

DON’T get drunk alone in public areas. Vietnam is a safe country, but do you really want to take the risk and become one of the rare crime victims?

DO report all crimes to the police. You will help improve the situation by not keeping silent.

DON’T ever abuse children. Be careful not to act in any way that could be seen as encouraging it.

Taxi girls and dancing girls

For someone in a hurry who does not know where to go, it is best to stick to the dancing girls, taxi girls and foreign-husband hunters mix with the normal crowds of fun seekers.

DON’T believe all what you are told. Girls who hang out at discotheque are simply not your traditional family-oriented career-dreaming types.

DO negotiate the price first before paying for the service. Be ware of “Oh, just anything you want to give me” price tag. It’s bound to get more difficult than that when comes to the time to hand out the cash.

DON’T have sex if you can manage it. Although prostitution can never be eliminated, it can be minimized. Very few girls choose prostitution as a fulfilling career!

But what about true love?

Well, it happens, sometimes. You are not the first foreigner to fall in love with a Vietnamese girl. If you are ready for long tem commitment, it is fairly to get married locally, as long as you have few weeks to spare and ways retrieve all your important papers from your home country (it will take 5 to 6 weeks)

DO remember that Vietnam has laws and regulations about marriage and that no matter how much of hurry you are in or how much you love each other; you will have to abide by these rules.

Family wedding and civil wedding

The Vietnamese regard the civil marriage as an “authorization from government to get married”. So strong is their belief in the family wedding as opposed to the civil one that government actually had to pass a decree forbidding the holding of the family wedding ceremony before getting the papers.

But if your partner is Vietnamese, the fun has just begun. After the civil wedding will come the engagement ceremony where elders of the groom’s family will meet elders from the bride’s family in order to exchange gifts and secure the authorization from both families to have their son/daughter married. May be before the law but not yet according to the traditions of a Confucian –based society. A “good day” will then be chosen for the ceremony. It will be based on the lunar calendar and your respective astrological signs. It could be a few days after the engagement or up to a few months or even a year. Have we talked about patience yet?

The final ceremony will involve both families and a few hundred friends and colleagues. Once a banquet has been held for all those people the, yes, you are husband and wife. The engagement and wedding ceremonies are highly colorful and full of interesting rituals. It is not the purpose of this book to delve into the complexities of these Vietnamese customs. Your future wife will guide you along this merry road.

DON’T think your foreigner status will exempt you from the government’s regulations on marriage and family law. The Vietnamese are proud of their achievements in this sector and they will resent any condescending attitudes or remarks.

DON’T try to go faster than the civil servants handling your case…yes; it can be a bit tricky if you or your spouse DON’T have all the necessary papers. But do you really want someone to put the brakes on and give you a real taste of stalled bureaucracy? A lifetime commitment is certainly worth a few weeks of patience.

DO remember that every culture has its customs which most of the time can look quite bemusing to an outsider. Just relax and enjoy the ride.

DO believe your future wife when she presents you with delays or additional difficulties. Again, most people will really do their best to welcome you into their family.

Travel while pregnancy

When your whole family is travelling, you have to be prepared for anything. We provide suggestions for traveling, such as safety advice, health tips, and vacation planning ideas.

Things to remember
Nine months is not a suitable time for travelling. The good news is that pregnancy usually doesn't preclude travelling for business or pleasure. Here are a few smart tips to keep in mind while travelling during pregnancy.

· Take stretch breaks
Whether you're in a car or in an airplane, getting up to move around at least every other hour is a must. This is particularly true the further along you are in your pregnancy. This will help prevent soreness and stiffness as well as blood clots.

· Stay hydrated
Pregnant women need a lot of fluids. Travelling makes it very easy to become dehydrated. Be sure that you always carry a water bottle with you. Remember that thirst is not always a great sign if your body needs fluids.

· Dress for the trip
Be sure to dress appropriately for the trip. When riding in a car, you don't always control the temperature. Wearing layers will give you more ease in staying cool or warm as you need to be during the trip.

· Be prepared
It would be necessary to carry a copy of your current prenatal record and your insurance card with you. While you don't anticipate problems, it's always a possibility. You can get your prenatal record from your doctor or midwife by simply asking. You will also want to talk to your practitioner about any vaccinations you may need to avoid or restrictions on your travel.
You will probably be asked to refrain from travel during the last few weeks of pregnancy except in cases of emergencies. Many airlines enforce this rule, so be sure to ask before you book a flight.

· Insurance card & Credit card
Remember to bring with you your insurance card/policy for emergency case. Credit cards, Visa cards (besides sufficient cash) are also required in similar cases during your far-from-home trip.

When is the best time to fly?
According to the scientists, air travel is safest for pregnant women during the second trimester – weeks 18 to 24. If you are considering a flight during your pregnancy, check with both your doctor and the airline before you book.
General consensus in the medical community suggests it is best not to travel pregnant before 12 weeks due to morning sickness and possible increased risk of miscarriage. Though many pregnant women have no trouble flying in the first trimester, it is always better to err on the safe side and consult your physician.
After 28 weeks, when the risk of going into labor increases, most airlines will require a letter from your doctor stating that you are fit for air travel while pregnant and confirming your estimated due date. If you are more than 36 weeks pregnant, many airlines will not let you fly due to the increased risk of delivering onboard.
There are some precautions that a pregnant traveler should consider:

• Talk to your practitioner before flying. If you are more than 36 weeks pregnant, many airlines will not let you fly for fear that you'll deliver on board.
• Try to do the majority of your traveling in the second trimester. Not only will you be more comfortable, but in general the risk of miscarriage and preterm labor are lower.
• Avoid excessive flying. Although there are no hard and fast numbers. The flight attendants with the higher miscarriage rates flew on average 74 hours per month.
• Make comfort arrangements. Try to get seats with more leg room, plan to walk in the aisles, potty breaks, and water...
• Avoid travel to countries that would require immunization. Talk to your practitioner for more info on immunizations.

So remember, flying is not contraindicated in an uncomplicated pregnancy, but use your common sense and speak to your practitioner about your travel plans.

Tips for Honeymooners/Couples

Get ready to experience a honeymoon of a lifetime! Vietnam has it all; exotic culture, a rich history, timeless traditions, majestic scenery, pristine beaches and culinary delights. Yet, be prepared with the followings things to ensure your sweet and safe honeymoon vacation:

• It’d be best to have a professional travel agent arrange a qualitative tour for you as you both must be tired after a busy preparing time for the wedding.
• Provide them with what you would like for your honeymoon so that the tour designers could help at best.
• Should you like romantic places, you’d better consider Mui Ne (or Ne Cape) in Southern Vietnam, a magnificent beach where sea and sky are in harmony; Ha Long Bay in Northern Vietnam, a fascinating World Heritage Legend; or Sa Pa in Northern Vietnam, the fanciful town in fog…
• You would like to relax? Please head to Whale Island resort, an isolated island, or Ecologde Sapa...
• For Luxury and Spa tour, just choose Nam Hai Resort in Hoi An; Six Sense, Six Senses Hideaway Ninh Van Bay Resort, or Evasion Ana Mandara Villas Dalat, etc. for a totally relaxing honeymoon.
• For something more adventurous and eventful, Scuba-Diving at Nha Trang beach, Elephant riding in Da Lat, Kayak at Ha Long Bay, or Mountain Climbing at Fansipan Sapa… would be on top of your choices.
• If you find interest in culture and traditional values, we highly suggest that you two travel to Hoi An, a living museum of Vietnam’s old town, or My Son, the old Cham’s holy land…
• And, in all, don’t forget to bring your most beautiful clothes, and an operational camera to keep the special moments of your romantic honeymoon.

The Elderly to travel

Buy insurance for yourself, particularly when you are more than 70, not only for healthcare reasons, but for a number of others like safety and equality. For instance, some old persons, well into their late 60s and beyond, leave their luggage in all kinds of places.

You virtually get 5 claims a day where some old dear forgot to pick up her handbag as she left a restaurant in Majorca losing a £400 camera, £300 prescription classes, bracelet worth £290 and £300 worth of money behind.
So, avoid travelling alone if you have some serious diseases, such as heart attack, high blood pressure, or alzheimer, and the like for the old. Or else, go with at least a strong person as your guardian.

Remember to bring all the required medicines and have them on time right up to your prescription.

Always bring along a note of your family’s or guardian’s contacts (Name, Address, Tel, etc.).

Keep in hand the list of local foreign hospitals or clinics, or International SOS Vietnam to contact when in need.

Travelling with kids

Your travel life needn't grind to a halt just because you've become a parent. But the reality is, much of your trip will be spent soothing and entertaining your baby. So much for dreamily staring out the window and taking in the passing scene.

But while travel will never be the same, it has its upside as well. You may discover the world is a friendlier place than you knew. There's no easier way to meet people than with a baby in your lap. And if you keep in mind the cardinal rule for traveling parents — create a home away from home wherever possible — it may become an experience you can all enjoy.

Here are some strategies for making travel with your baby a success, contributed by family travel authors, pediatricians, child development experts, and fellow parents.

Where to go?

We've consulted six leading family travel experts and come up with these winning family-travel destinations:

Bed-and-breakfasts

Beach scenes

Big cities

Bike touring

Family camps

Family resorts

Nature camps

But you'll want to avoid these activities with your little one: rafting, theme parks, foreign travel, some country inns, and long stays with friends.

What to bring?

We'll help you organize your trip with our packing checklists for your baby or toddler. You'll also want to print out a first-aid kit for the road, and an emergency checklist — just in case you run into trouble.

Create a home away from home

Once you get to your destination, consult our ten tips to help your baby adjust:

Bring a blankie and cuddly toy

Start — and end — your day early

Establish a routine and stick to it

Eat familiar foods

Stay close to home base

Schedule running-around time for toddlers

Expect the adjustment to take several days

and to help you cope. Finally, you'll find answers to your questions about traveling with small children, such as traveling with a baby if she's colicky or has an ear infection, where to rent strollers, how to babyproof a hotel room, and more. For more, see below:

Bedding down

No one sleeps like a baby, and babies generally sleep very well on the road. The rocking, lurching, chugging motions usually knock them right out. Still, having a familiar bed or bed gear reassures infants and small children. For infants, we travel with a small portable crib that can fit under our legs on public transportation, or on our laps. We've also used (and like) little zip-up buntings that keep baby in a cozy, manageable bundle.

By the time the baby is six months old, it's time to graduate to a portable crib. Portable cribs are also very handy for taking to the beach or pool.

A familiar blanket and toy can make all the difference for traveling children. As they get older, they can continue to treasure their favorite blanket.

Getting around

We like child-carrying backpacks for traveling with kids up to 3 years old. Also, you should travel with the lightest umbrella stroller, which we push right onto the plane and store in the overhead compartment. Wheeling the baby or toddler aboard can really save your back on a half-mile long concourse.

We find it much more convenient and cost-effective to take our own car seats with us on vacation. They are also handy for keeping junior in one place in the hotel rooms during feedings and quiet time.

Diapers

It’s best to travel with at least a dozen cloth diapers for when you settle down in a spot. Disposable diapers can be very expensive in developing countries, so we recommend starting out with a good supply from home. Don't forget the rubber pants, and carry a packet of wipes and rash cream in your day bag to make diaper changes easier. We like creams containing Vitamins A and D because they're good for sunburn and other skin irritations as well.

Clothing

Keep it simple and keep it to the minimum, for both you and baby. You can expect to be doing some laundry every few days anyway, so why burden yourself with too many changes of clothes? We usually figure on four changes of clothes, two sets of pajamas, one dress-up outfit and an all purpose jacket, suited to the climate you're traveling in. Add socks, underwear, one pair of shoes and a swimsuit, and you're ready to go. For maximum convenience, take mix-and-match separates in dark and bright colors. In hot climates, all cotton is definitely more comfortable. Be sure to bring a hat that protects baby from the sun. Pack the bags, and then don't worry about it. If you find you're missing some crucial item, you can always pick it up along the way, for a more intimate souvenir.

Toys

Take a few small favorites and maybe a favorite book. When those toys have lost their appeal, stop in at a local toy store and buy new playthings along the way. Check them out closely, however, as safety standards vary.

Family travel wise

When your whole family is travelling, you have to be prepared for anything. We provide suggestions for traveling, such as safety advice, health tips, and vacation planning ideas.

Staying safe

With headlines reporting attacks against tourists becoming more and more common, vacationers are on the alert. A recent magazine survey discovered that 85% of their readers said these reports have prompted them to be more cautious on while on holiday. Don't let a few criminals ruin your vacation. By taking a few precautions and staying alert, you can avoid spending part of your holiday filing a report at an exotic police station.

Before you go

Call ahead. While deadbolts and peepholes are standard in motel rooms these days, safety awareness on the part of hotel management varies widely, so it's worth calling ahead to ask specific questions.

Look for rooms that open onto an interior hallway, rather than to the outside. While it's easier to unload the car when it's parked right outside the door, a room that opens directly onto parking makes it easier for thieves to monitor your comings and goings, and to get into your room when you drive off for a day at Marine land.

Look for electronic key cards, instead of regular room keys.The electronic cards are reprogrammed for each new guest.

Don't pack valuables in baggage you plan to check. Your bags will pass through a lot of unsupervised hands on its cross-country flight, so keep your jewelry, money and travelers checks close at hand in a carry-on bag. And there's always the chance that your baggage may not keep up with you, so pack medications and prescriptions in your carry on bags.

Airport safety

Watch your bags! Baggage theft at airports is on the rise, and half of the bags stolen are those left unattended. Thieves know that carry-on bags are where people carry their valuables and cash. Outside the airport, too, and anywhere on the road, never leave your bags unattended for a second, especially in Europe and Asia. Use teamwork. Have one family member--a teenager or adult--anchor the bags and the younger kids while an adult goes off to get directions or a cab.
Watch your pockets. People bumping into you could very well be pickpockets, and people asking you questions could be diverting your attention while an accomplice grabs your bag. This advice applies in spades to tourist attractions and public transportation, as well. Consider purchasing a money belt or money bag that you wear inside your clothing, and using it. Carry in your pockets only enough cash for a day, and only one credit card.

On the road with your rental car

When you pick up your car rental, ask which parts of town to stay away from. Staying away from high-crime parts of town could be the most important safeguard you can take. It's all too easy to inadvertently drive into bad neighborhoods when you're in a strange city, but with a little foresight and a decent map, it's just as easy to avoid them.

Don't look like a tourist. Tuck the Disneyland bags and travel guides discreetly away in the trunk when you're away from your car. It doesn't hurt to leave a local paper in plain sight to further enhance the illusion that you're one of the locals. Leave nothing in sight. Cars have been broken into for jackets and shopping bags.

Pass up that hot red jeep. Stick to cars that are unobtrusive and blend in. Forget the car wash! A cruise down a dusty road, or through a few mud puddles, will make your rental look lived in!
Locales

One of the best things you can do to protect yourself is know where the bad neighborhoods are, and to avoid them. Before you leave your hotel, ask which way to turn when you walk out the door, and which direction to avoid.

Hotel safety

Know where the emergency exit is in case of fire

Show your children how to call the front desk. While they may know how to dial 911 in case of emergency at home, unless you tell them, they won't know to dial 9 for an outside line, or to dial 0 for the hotel receptionist.

Out and about

ID your kids. On an index card, write each child's name, your name and hotel address and phone number, as well as the phone number of a close friend or relative back home.

Always have a recent, clear photo of your child with you. If you do get separated, the authorities will want an up-to-date picture.

You don't need a wallet full of credit cards when you travel. Bring only what you need--two should be enough--and leave copies of the front and back of each card, and any other important documents you are carrying, with a friend or close relative. If they are lost or stolen, you'll have easy access to the necessary information. Also leave a list of your travelers checks, by number. A member of the party who's not carrying the credit cards and travelers checks should also carry a copy of this list. And consider having Mom carry one credit card, and Dad carry the other.

Vietnam: the purple marks of belonging

Cao gio is an indelible part of local medicine. It might be a placebo, but it is also a social bond and a link with the past.

My girlfriend, Thuy, is lying face down on the floor, naked from the waist up, her head resting on a pillow. An old woman straddles her and, with rhythmic sweeping motions, rubs a silver coin into the exposed flesh. Thuy's back is covered in bruises – vivid purple stripes extending symmetrically outwards from her spine. On a nearby bed two children are playing cards. In a hammock an old man is snoring. Nobody seems interested in the torture scene being enacted under their noses.

Actually, this is not torture but an everyday slice of life. When I first arrived I was bewildered by the number of people walking around with grotesque markings on their skin – women with purple bruises running down their necks; shirtless men flaunting the tracery of welt marks across their backs.

Enlightenment came abruptly and comically. I arranged to meet a pretty Vietnamese girl in a restaurant. In I walked, and there she sat, smiling sweetly, apparently oblivious to the purple blemishes all over her neck. My first thought was: "Lovebites!" I didn't tell her this, instead gently broaching the subject of her neck ... er … injuries. Whereupon she burst out laughing and initiated me into the world of cao gio.

In England, if you have a headache or a pain, you take aspirin. In Vietnam you allow your body to be scraped with a coin, or spoon or similar object. The skin is first lubricated with a balm or oil and the coin is rubbed firmly and repeatedly in a linear pattern until blood appears under the skin. This is cao gio (pronounced "cow yaw"), which literally means "catch the wind". Illnesses are believed to be caused by an excess of wind and cao gio is believed to release the excess wind and restore balance.

Does it work? The Vietnamese seem to think so, but, to my sceptical Western mind, it is the patient's belief in the efficacy of cao gio, plus the therapeutic effect of massaging that are responsible for any cure.

Cao gio – along with herbalists, acupuncturists, sorcerers, fortune-tellers and priests – is an indelible part of Vietnamese medicine. More than anything, cao gio is a social bond, a link with the past and with your neighbours – a highly visible sign that you are part of tradition and truly Vietnamese. One of these days, I might try it myself.

Vietnam for foodies

Hoi An boasts some of the best food I've eaten on my trip thus far. For whatever reason, this little town claims a few delectable dishes as unique to their town alone. The first is White Rose, a simple but outstanding meat and shrimp dumpling steamed in a rice dough that somewhat resembles a white rose.

White Rose dumplings

Second is Cao Lau, a noodle and beef soup with bean sprouts and fresh herbs mixed in when it arrives at the table. The noodles are only available in Hoi An because they are made from a particular water source that gives them their unique texture. The noodles are a bit doughy but the dish is truly delectable because the meat is marinated and tastes a bit of cinnamon. And the fresh herbs are amazing...mint and basil, I believe.

Cao Lau served with rice crackers.

Finally, crispy rice pancakes, known as "Banh Xeo", which consist of a fried pancake, kind of like a rice crepe, with bean sprouts and shrimp inside. The dish is served with all sorts of fresh herbs which you put inside the pancake and then wrap in a thin piece of rice paper. It's topped off by dipping in an amazing spicy peanut sauce. To die for.

Crispy rice pancake with fresh herbs, ready to be rolled

A rolled pancake, ready for dipping!

Hoi An also makes a delightful fried won ton, showing the Chinese influence on this old port town. I for one am glad, because they are darn good.

Okay, they look a bit funky, but are basically fried yumminess wrapped around a meat center with veggies and sauce on top

During this trip I've also grown a slight obsession for squid, which I eat nearly every day. I've tried just about every type of squid you could imagine and my favorite thus far came from a food stand in Hoi An called "Mr. Hung." I ordered squid grilled in a banana leaf with onions, garlic and lemongrass. It was so tender and delicious that I ate the entire thing. The ladies cooking the food made fun of me and said, mostly through sign language, that if I ate squid like that everyday I'd get fat!!

My squid is somewhere in that banana leaf, which is in a wire basket being grilled on an open flame....heaven.

The final dish...

Both Betsy and I agreed that Morning Glory was the best restaurant we visited in Hoi An. The food was simple, fresh and absolutely amazing. The proprietress of the restaurant cooks family food the way her mother taught her. I want to live at her house! She said that fresh herbs are such a strong cultural influence that many Vietnamese will start to feel homesick if they cannot have fresh herbs everyday. It's true that most food comes with a plate of herbs which makes a huge difference in the quality of the dish.

Betsy ordered this interesting dish at Morning Glory...a shrimp coconut curry actually cooked in a young coconut. The sauce was slightly sweet and unbelievably flavorable.

The Vietnamese do not eat sweet breakfasts like we do in the states. One staple of their diet is "congee" which is a rice porridge with either fish, chicken or pork. It's savory and quite good! The coffee here is also fantastic, albeit a little strong. It will seriously put hair on your chest so they dilute it with sweetened condensed milk! And it comes with a little coffee filter perched on the cup. Seriously delicious.

Congee for breakfast with a cup of coffee in the background. I love the little coffee filter so it can brew right at the table!

Another item that is everywhere in Vietnam is "pho," pronounced "fer." This is a simple noodle soup, traditionally with beef but you can get it with chicken or veggies, that is once again served with a pile of bean sprouts and fresh herbs you mix in at the table. Fantastic.

"Pho", aka noodle soup, with a plate of fresh herbs and some fresh coconut water. You can't get much healthier than that!

Finally, I tried a traditional Vietnamese dessert called "Che" which is basically a sweet green bean soup. It's actually made with mung beans and is only slightly sweet but quite good! No wonder the Vietnamese are so slender! They even eat veggies for dessert!!

Eating my sweet green bean soup, served cold in a glass

I reluctantly leave the food of Vietnam behind...and will seek out Vietnamese restaurants in the states as soon as I return!